Bucegi – Galbinele & Scorus

This week-end I tried something new. Last time when I climbed in Bucegi it happened 20 years ago. It was my first time in the mountains. I still remember this experience although I was reeeeally young. Back than I climbed with my father and stayed over night at Omu refugee. Except this trip my only encounter with this beautiful mountain was only with the cable car – Busteni – Babele.

This week-end Tudor convinced me to try a nice steep valley – Galbinele. Our plan was to climb also a portion of Scorus and than go down through White Valley (Valea Alba).

Our first stop was Costila refugee (1690 m) to refuel and to prepare for the climb.

A very nice view of Busteni, Azuga and some beautiful routes can be seen from this refugee. Here is a pic with an interesting route …

These are the heroes of this entry 🙂

After a few meters through the forest we’ve entered Galbinele valley.

Galbinele is quite steep and in order to get in time on the plateau we’ve switch turns in cutting the route through the snow. Crampons and an ice axe are a must in this period. The snow is still very big and because of the steepness of the route you need a way to stop if you slip some how. This route is definitely not for beginners. You need to be comfortable using the crampons and the ice axe and also to have some experience in climbing mixed (rock & ice) steep routes.

The final portion of Galbinele …

And another one with the valley seen from the top.

After finishing the first part of the route we traversed slightly to the left on a tricky portion and we’ve entered Scorus Valley.

The tricky portion …

Just before reaching the plateau – probably the last 100 m – the clouds started to come and we couldn’t see the route anymore. As we were climbing we’ve noticed 2 cornices just at the exit to the plateau. Because we couldn’t see where we were heading we decided to descend following the route we cut through the snow.

In the above picture our route is clearly visible … and also the clouds :).

At the entrance to Galbinele I had a chance to take some nice photos as the clouds started to dissipate.

Although we couldn’t finish the route the climb in Bucegi was excellent. I really enjoyed the steepness of the valley and its technical character. I hope next time we will reach the plateau :).

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