Memories from this year – Cocotz/Climbing Prapastiile Zarnestiului

Posted: October 22, 2010 in Piatra Craiului

Last year in this period I was coming home after a party at Curmatura and at La Refugiu sector there were some guys rock climbing. I have to admit that I was always attracted by this sport but in some strange way I wasn’t able to practice it from various reasons. So as we were passing by that area a friend of mine, Ionel, already mounted the rope and he had  invited me to give it try on Marina route. This is the easiest route from that sector – 5a and it has 25 m. First I hesitated, but Ionel told me that it is easy and he will borrow me his equipment. OK … let’s give it a try than. The first part is very easy – probably 4a – 4b, but after 10 m the route becomes steep and if you are afraid of heights its not a good idea to look down. However I was determined to finish the route and one step after another I’ve manage to reach the top. To be honest I’m very proud of my first ascent. I will keep it with me for the rest of my life. Marina its not easy for a beginner, not to mention for somebody who is trying this sport for the first time. However, starting from last year I’ve got infected with this virus and since January this year I have started to go in Brasov to Natural High climbing gym.

So much for the beginning. This year in May, Ionel invited me to Prapastiile Zarnestiului for another round and this time I was anxious 🙂

We started on Grota Sector. More details regarding the routes can be found here.

And this time I was much better … but I wasn’t able to finish in one round. In the middle of the sector I slipped, but I continued from there and finish successfully.

Some shots…


The routes from this sector are harder than Marina, they have 6a (Gruia) and 6a+(Gusatu). It was a grade more than what I have tried last time on the rock and I was satisfied with myself. After that we moved at La Refugiu sector, and there I’ve manage to successfully climb in the first round Afumatura which is 6a+.

Also I’ve climbed Marina but this time with no problems. Another shot with me an Iuli to the left. You can see how bad I was climbing :), my hands were not stretched and I was holding a static position with muscle power. This is something to avoid, always the arms stretched and most importantly footwork.

Since May I was many times to Prapastiile Zarnestiului for climbing. Mostly at La Refugiu sector because every time was raining and that was the only place where is safe to climb due to an impressive overhang which shelters the routes.

That time I’ve also learned that its not a good idea to go rock climbing in shorts. My knees where filled with bruises, but I’ve learned my lesson :).

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